FIFTH Snow Pants Project:
Ver.2 Development Chronicle

FIFTH's snow pants project began in 2021 when they discovered approximately 1,000 pairs of original snow pants in a surplus shop warehouse in Alaska. They then held pop-up events around the country, and in response to the positive response, they produced their own model that faithfully reproduced the original. Over the past two years, they have sold over 1,500 pairs.

Now, for the first time in about a year, we are releasing a new model with revised patterns, materials, and silhouette. While retaining the unique presence of the original, we have adjusted the fit to be more suitable for everyday wear, making it suitable for everyday use.

Based on the experience gained from selling thousands of pairs of snow pants, the Ver. 2 model has been refined with a silhouette and details that we would like to wear right now.

The original snow pants were designed to be worn over ECWCS (extreme cold weather) Gore-Tex pants, and were not suitable for wearing on their own.

In particular, while the extreme size around the rise and hips is a design feature, it also makes them difficult to wear on a daily basis. This model retains the volume and silhouette that are unique to overpants, but is designed with comfort and a good fit that is suitable for everyday wear.

The FIFTH Snow Pants Project began in 2021 when we discovered approximately 1,000 original US military snow camouflage trousers in the warehouse of a surplus shop in Alaska.

Following this discovery, we held a series of pop-up events across various cities. The enthusiastic response inspired us to faithfully reproduce the original snow pants in-house. Over the past two years, we've sold more than 1,500 pairs.

Now, for the first time in about a year, we are releasing a new version with updated patterns, materials, and silhouette. While preserving the distinct presence of the original design, we have adjusted the fit for modern, urban wear—making them suitable for everyday use.

Drawing on our experience of selling thousands of snow pants, we've created Version 2 —a silhouette and set of details that reflect what we ourselves would want to wear today.

The original military snow pants were designed to be worn over ECWCS (Extreme Cold Weather Clothing System) Gore-Tex trousers. As such, they were not suitable for standalone wear. Their extremely deep rise and oversized hips were key design features, but they posed practical challenges for daily use.

This new model retains the volume and silhouette characteristic of overpants, but reimagines them with a refined fit and comfort tailored for life in the city.

Fifth - Arctic Snow Camouflage Trousers

Size: S, M, L

Col  :  Black, Deep-Navy, Dark-Plum, Mud-Brown, Deep-Moss, Smoky-Quartz, Cement-Grey, Light-Greige, Fog-Blue.

Price: ¥19,000 + Tax 

Published in 2002, "The Supermodern Wardrobe" (author: V&A curator Andrew Bolton) is a book that systematizes the functionality-focused techwear that emerged in the late 1990s from a "supermodern" perspective.

Inspired by this philosophy, these snow pants are available in nine colors, a reinterpretation of techwear from the 90s. The color palette combines practicality and presence, acting as camouflage that blends into urban spaces, and is finished with garment dyeing.

Andrew Bolton

The Supermodern Wardrobe (2002')

The Supermodern Wardrobe explores how early 21st-century fashion responds to urban life, blending technology, function, and identity in innovative clothing design.

The US military's white snow camo pants were introduced as the M-1950 during the Korean War in the 1950s, and have since been used by various units in various eras, with many improvements made.

Although they are not often used on a large scale in actual combat, they are active in a variety of contexts, including winter combat training, exercises in extremely cold regions, base security, and search and rescue operations.

Snow camouflage overpants were used by the U.S. military from the 1960s to the 1990s. The main models were the M-50 and M-65, which were designed for extreme cold and were coverall-style pants worn over other clothing. The M-65 model was first produced in 1969 and was supplied until 1999.

There are various theories as to why snow pants are back in the spotlight, but we believe their origins lie in a revival in the late 1990s.

At the time, as an extension of the cargo pants boom, British brand Maharishi released their snow pants, the "SnoPant." They were popular with a wide range of people, from celebrities to street fashion. Maharishi's techwear-inspired designs are now traded at high prices as archives and are being reevaluated. The designer behind these designs was Tony Spackman, who later worked for Nike and Givenchy. He was truly a key figure who symbolized this era.

Since around 2017, with the popularity of archives from the 1990s to early 2000s and the rise of the vintage clothing boom, snow pants and tech items have once again become popular and are now being sold in many vintage clothing stores.

The appeal of the original US military snow pants is their extreme volume, which is unique to overpants. The unusual volume in the hips, rise, and thighs creates an extreme silhouette when worn, which has spread on social media. The "abnormal size" has been embraced as a fresh and appealing feature.

However, the original was designed to be worn over ECWCS GORE-TEX pants, so wearing it alone had problems with mobility and fit, making it unsuitable for everyday use.

This Ver.2 version retains the original design while updating it with a more modern pattern and fit for everyday use. The balance of the inseam, the roundness of the hips, and the width of the thighs have been redesigned to create a pair of pants you'll want to wear right now.

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