Integrating Form and Function:
Knee Pleated Baggy Pants

Integrating Form and Function: Knee Pleated Baggy Pants

The "Knee Pleated Baggy Pants" are based on baggy pants and feature variable knee pleats, creating a beautiful silhouette with minimalist yet three-dimensional curved legs.

In addition, the brand combines the functionality and details of military and workwear, reinterpreting the design of elements from different categories.

Top 175cm Large, Bottom 168cm Medium

I had occasionally come across knee pleats in the various archives from the 90s and 00s that I had collected, and it was a detail that intrigued me.

It was probably adopted to ensure range of motion when the fabric itself lacked elasticity, such as in Levi's silver tabs, sportswear from the 90s (now known as techwear), and military wear.

Left: 175cm Large, Right: 170cm Small

This rough idea evokes a sense of history. What was cutting edge at a certain point in time is reevaluated with different meanings and contexts over time. This sense of twistedness will be familiar to anyone who likes fashion.

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Fabric / 13oz Cotton Twill

Color / Faded BLK, Faded WHT, Over-dyed Gray

Size: Small, Medium, Large.

“Knee Pleated Baggy Pants” are defined by their minimal yet beautifully contoured, three-dimensional leg silhouette, achieved by combining a baggy pant base with adjustable knee pleats. They also merge military and workwear functionality and details, reinterpreting design elements from various categories.

History and Design of Knee-Pleated Pants

Knee-pleated pants were originally designed to improve range of motion and comfort. By adding room at the knee and stitching along the joints, they allowed for smooth movement without stretching the fabric. This technique was first adopted for military and workwear.

The Supermodern wardrobe (2002 / Andrew Bolton)

FASHION ARMY

(2024 / Matthieu Nicol)

The M-65 field pants worn by the US military in the 1960s are a prime example of pants with pleats at the knees to ensure ease of movement. They were designed to allow soldiers to move smoothly during combat and on the move, and this functionality was widely praised.

Articulated knee construction also became common in hiking pants and workwear, with darts or panels added to increase knee range of motion.

From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, tech-oriented brands, influenced by military, outdoor, and motocross wear, released a series of futuristic, functional pants incorporating articulated structures.

For example, Levi's "Engineered Jeans" use 3D cutting around the knees to create a unique ergonomic fit, while brands like Nike ACG and Stone Island have also incorporated similar design elements, creating knee structures that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

As a result of this trend, knee pleats have become an iconic detail in street fashion and techwear, evolving into an essential element of modern style.

In fashion, it is not uncommon for details and designs from the past to be reevaluated. Rather than simply reviving them, we place importance on capturing their essence and reconstructing them into a form that is appropriate for the current era.

The Knee Pleated Baggy Pants are a product based on archives from the 90s and 00s, incorporating a modern silhouette and functionality.